Bergamo honours Alpini

You could be forgiven for thinking that Bergamo was showing support for the Italian side in the World Cup finals one month early.
At the weekend, while I was visiting the city I saw the Italian flag being proudly displayed from every building, window and balcony.
Even the columns of Porta Nuova in the Città Bassa (lower town) were draped with the colours of the tricolore.
I discovered what had prompted this display of patriotism when I read in the newspaper that the city had welcomed the Alpini the weekend before for three days of marches, concerts and celebrations.
The Alpini, the elite mountain warfare soldiers in the Italian army, had come to Bergamo for their 83rd annual rally.

Big crowds turned out to watch them march through the city and many restaurants put on special menus for the event.
There was also a wreath laying, a mass for the fallen, and a fireworks display. Even the cranes doing work on the city were draped with giant Italian flags.
Although I had missed the parades and celebrations, I enjoyed the carnival atmosphere in the city and some lovely sunny weather during my 48-hour stay last weekend.

I was pleased to discover great enthusiasm for this website from all the people I spoke to in restaurants, bars and shops and from the friendly staff at the tourism information offices in both the Città Alta and the Città Bassa.
Let’s hope the azzurri, the Italian national football team, will give people in Bergamo a reason to celebrate again soon.


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See stunning Sirmione

Within easy reach of Bergamo,  the resort of Sirmione lies in a dramatic setting on a narrow, four kilometre peninsula reaching out into Lago di Garda (Lake Garda).
Sirmione has a medieval centre, full of interesting shops, bars and restaurants, and a fairytale castle, la Rocca Scaligera (above) - the first thing you see as you approach by boat.
The castle was built by a powerful family from Verona in the 13th century and the Italian poet Dante is reputed to have once spent the night there, but it is worth visiting la Rocca Scaligera for the views of the lake from the battlements alone.
There are beautiful views of Lake Garda from many different vantage points in Sirmione that have inspired writers over the centuries, from the Roman poet Catullus to Ezra Pound and James Joyce in the 20th century, who are reputed to have once met up in the resort.
You can visit the ruins of a Roman villa (below), built in the first century BC, that perch on a rocky promontory. Although they are known as Le Grotte di Catullo, it is by no means certain that the poet ever lived there.

Born in Verona, Catullus is believed to have lived in Sirmione for part of his life and his poetry singles out the resort for special praise from  ‘…all peninsulas and isles, that in our lakes of silver lie…’
Opera singer Maria Callas also appreciated the beauty of Sirmione, choosing to spend part of her life living in a secluded villa here.
To reach Sirmione from Bergamo by train, travel to Brescia and catch the Milan to Venice express, getting off at Desenzano del Garda. The lake is a few minutes walk from the station.
It takes about an hour to reach Desenzano from Bergamo by car. Leave the A4 Autostrada at the Desenzano exit and head for the centre where there are several car parks.
Un Servizio di Navigazione (boat service) runs regularly between Desenzano and Sirmione from Piazza Matteotti in the centre of Desenzano.


More Day Trips: Desenzano, San Pellegrino, Crema, Sarnico, Lake Garda, Lago Iseo.


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Step inside Santa Maria Maggiore

Monument to Donizetti

On a short visit to Bergamo you cannot hope to see everything. You will pass many fine buildings as you
walk around the Città Alta (upper town) but may feel you do not have the time to go inside.
I would suggest you make an exception with the Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore in Piazza Duomo.
The basilica, which dates back to the 12th century, is considered to be one of the finest buildings in Lombardy and its interior, with its richly decorated cupola from the 16th century, does not let it down. There are some fine Flemish and Florentine tapestries and works of art.
At the back of the church is an elaborate white marble monument (above right) designed by Vincenzo Vela, marking the tomb of composer Gaetano Donizetti, who was born in Bergamo and returned to die in the city. The picture below shows detail on the monument. Nearby there is a monument to his teacher Simon Mayr, who was at one time 'maestro of the chapel 'in the basilica.
There is also an elaborately carved wooden confessional designed by Andrea Fantoni in 1704 and an altar rail with wood carvings made to the designs of Lorenzo Lotto.

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Enjoy a taste of San Pellegrino

Experience the gentle charm of the spa town where European aristocracy used to take the waters, 24 kilometres north of Bergamo.
The name San Pellegrino has now become synonymous with the bottled aqua minerale, which has been sold all over the world for more than 100 years. But since medieval times, San Pellegrino Terme in the Valle Brembana has been a place people visit hoping for a cure for their illnesses. The waters of the terme -- thermal springs -- are believed to be particularly effective against uric acid and kidney stones.
As a resort, San Pellegrino was very fashionable at the end of the 19th century when impressive buildings such as the Grand Hotel (pictured below), the Palazzo della Fonte and the Casino Municipale were built in elaborate Liberty style.
It is worth a visit, by car or bus from Bergamo, to see the opulent architecture and to take a stroll along the banks of the River Brembo, imagining what San Pellegrino would have been like at the height of its popularity.
There are plenty of elegant bars and restaurants on the main street looking out over the river.
But wherever you decide to stop for refreshment, make sure you order a bottle of San Pellegrino. Salute!

Language point     Le terme

Terme on the end of a place name means that the town has thermal baths or springs, where water gushes out of the ground at a high temperature.
In Roman times elaborate buildings were designed in these places to enable people to bathe in the springs.
A modern example is Montecatini Terme near Pistoia in Tuscany, which is one of the most popular centres for thermal springs in Italy.



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Park Hotel in peaceful setting

For romantic views over Lago di Garda (Lake Garda) and a peaceful location, consider staying at the Park Hotel (above) in Desenzano del Garda.
This immaculate hotel, furnished in traditional style with some antique pieces, is set in well-tended gardens on the Lungolago Cesare Battisti facing the lake.
The four star Park Hotel has 45 superior and 12 junior suites equipped with satellite television, mini bar and internet point. The hotel also provides car parking, room service, an indoor swimming pool and hydromassage baths.
The restaurant, looking out over the lake, serves a rich buffet breakfast and offers lunch and dinner menus that include Lombardian specialities and local produce, such as fish from the lake.
I stayed at the Park Hotel for a special occasion in a room with a double aspect that had views over the gardens and the lake. It was a relaxing and peaceful holiday, even though the hotel was just a five minute walk from the centre of Desenzano with its bars and shops.
To reach the Park Hotel leave the A4 at Desenzano del Garda and follow the signs to the centre of the town. When you reach the Lungolago Cesare Battisti the Park Hotel is at number 19 near the Piazza Malvezzi.
Book here or for more information visit www.gardalake.it/parkhotel or telephone 030 9143494.


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Toast the town!

For a spectacular view of the Città Bassa while you sip un aperitivo in the Città Alta, visit the Caffè della Funicolare.
Located within the funicular station in Via Porta Dipinta (see map below), just off the Piazza Mercato delle Scarpe, the Caffè has a balcony from where you can enjoy one of the best views of Bergamo’s lower town, whether by day, or when it is lit up at night.
The elegant Caffè is popular with both local people and visitors and is open from 8 am until 2 am every day except Tuesday. In addition to snacks and drinks, the Caffè serves meals featuring local produce and some of Bergamo’s speciality dishes.
The funicular station in the Città Alta is housed in a 14th century building that used to belong to the Suardi family, who were influential in Bergamo's history.
For more information about the Caffè’s menu, telephone 035 210091.
Salute!

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Spend a day in Desenzano

The largest resort on Lago di Garda (Lake Garda) is Desenzano del Garda on the south western shore, which is within easy reach of Bergamo.
Desenzano is a lively town with plenty to see and do and some up-market fashion shops. It is also well served by good restaurants, bars and hotels.
You can enjoy sweeping views of the lake if you walk along Lungolago Cesare Battisti (above) or you can climb the steep streets away from the lake to explore the town.
It takes about an hour to reach Desenzano from Bergamo by car. Leave the A4 Autostrada at the Desenzano exit and head for the centre where there are several car parks.
It also takes about an hour by train, with a change at Brescia, and it is then a short walk, or bus or taxi ride, from the station to Piazza Matteotti in the centre of Desenzano.
A Servizio di Navigazione (boat service) operates from Desenzano to other resorts on Lago di Garda such as Sirmione, Bardolino, Peschiera and Moniga del Garda.
There are plenty of bars and restaurants around the port as well as at the Porto Vecchio (old harbour), which is a short walk away.
Desenzano’s Ufficio di Informazione Turistico (Tourist Information Office) is located there.
The Romans apparently enjoyed holidays in Desenzano and, in 1921, the remains of a fourth century Roman villa were unearthed close to the lake. These are now open to the public and can be accessed from Via Antonio Gramsci.
There is also a medieval castle within walking distance of the lake in Via Castello.
The Duomo, which is dedicated to Santa Maria Maddalena, in Piazza Duomo, off Via Mazzini, is full of art treasures, which includes an 18th century version of The Last Supper by Giambattista Tiepolo.