A MAGICAL PLACE

Bergamo’s beautiful upper town, the Città Alta (pictured above), is a magical place well worth visiting. Use this website to help you plan your trip to Bergamo in Northern Italy and find your way to some of the other lovely towns and villages in Lombardia that are perhaps less well known to tourists.

20101112

Stay in Lovere at the side of the lake

The Piazza XXIII Martiri
If you want to explore Lago Iseo in detail while staying in Bergamo you might find it worthwhile to book a hotel on the lake for a couple of nights.
Lovere is a good location to choose as it is within easy reach of Bergamo by bus or car and is linked by a boat service with Pisogne, Iseo and Sarnico, making it easy to get around.
A beautiful village with an interesting history, Lovere was selected for the 2009 edition of I Borghi piu belli d’Italia (the most beautiful small towns in Italy) guidebook.
In the elegant Piazza XXIII Martiri at the side of the lake you will find the Hotel Moderno, which despite its name is housed in an historic building and has been run by the same family for more than 100 years.
There are panoramic views of the lake from many of the rooms in the hotel, which is also located conveniently close to the medieval centre of Lovere.
The hotel has its own restaurant and beauty salon, a reception area which is open 24 hours a day and wi fi internet access. It is open all the year round and is accessible to the disabled.
The Hotel Moderno would be an ideal base for walking or cycling excursions in the are or exploring Lago Iseo by boat.
For more information visit http://www.albergomoderno.eu/

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20101111

Bergamo’s tribute to first world war fallen

Torre dei Caduti
The focus will be on the Torre dei Caduti in the centre of Bergamo’s Città Bassa (lower town) today as the city remembers its war dead.
The early 20th century war memorial towers over Piazza Vittorio Veneto and Via Sentierone but has been carefully positioned so that despite standing 45 metres tall it does not spoil the skyline of the Città Alta (upper town).
The Torre dei Caduti (tower of the fallen) was built to honour the citizens of Bergamo who were killed in the first world war.
It was part of the new layout for the centre of the Città Bassa by architect Marcello Piacentini in the 1920s, who recalled the buildings of the Città Alta, such as the Torre di Gombito, in his choice of design and materials.
The Torre dei Caduti was officially inaugurated at a ceremony in 1924.




20101105

Sample the delicate fragrance of a classic Chiaretto

When eating out in restaurants in Bergamo, look out for a wine called Chiaretto.
If you enjoy Bardolino wine, you will love Bardolino Chiaretto Classico, even if you are not normally a fan of rosé wines.
It is probably a gross oversimplification to say that Chiaretto is a pink version of Bardolino, but the wine comes from the same production zone and has the same delicate hint of raspberries and blackberries, with a subtle spice all of its own.
It is ideal for drinking when you don’t want to order a red wine, as it has the lightness and freshness of a good Italian white wine combined with the delicate fruitiness of a young Bardolino.
Chiaretto is made from Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara grapes, which have been grown in the ideal climate of Lake Garda, not far from Bergamo. The wine is a delightful coral pink when bottled and is best drunk young.  The picture shows a bottle of 2009 Villabella Bardolino Chiaretto.
The good news is you will probably be able to find it back home as 70 per cent of all doc wines produced in the Bardolino classico zone are exported.
The main buyers are Germany, France, the UK, Canada, Belgium, Denmark, the US and Japan.
Bardolino wine producers report an increase in popularity for their Chiaretto labels, with 10 million bottles sold in 2009 and sales looking better still for this year.
The Bardolino wine consortium (Consorzio Tutelavino Bardolino Doc) says that Chiaretto goes well with antipasti, pasta dishes, fish, seafood and white meat. (For more information about Bardolino wines visit www.ilbardolino.com)
The consortium recommends Chiaretto as a good accompaniment for ravioli in particular and so I have no hesitation in suggesting that you try a glass of it with the traditional Bergamo dish, casoncelli alla bergamasca. Salute!
Bardolino on Lake Garda




20101102

Death of Bergamo’s ‘honourable’ condottiero

One of the most influential men in Bergamo’s history, military leader Bartolomeo Colleoni, died 535 years ago today.
Colleoni spent most of his life in the pay of the republic of Venice, defending Bergamo against invaders.
But he is remembered as one of the most honourable condottieri of his era, carrying out charitable works and agricultural improvements in Bergamo and the surrounding area when he was not involved in a military campaign.
The Colleoni Chapel
In later life he lived peacefully with his family at his castle in Malpaga, to the south of Bergamo .
Towards the end he turned his attention to designing a building to house his own tomb in the Citta Alta (upper town), which was to give Bergamo its most ornate and celebrated building, the Cappella Colleoni (Colleoni Chapel).
He commissioned the architect Antonio Amadeo to design an impressive chapel where he could be buried with all the insignia of a captain of the Venetian republic.
The sacristry of the Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore in Piazza Duomo had to be demolished to make way for this.
Amadeo designed the Cappella Colleoni to harmonise with Santa Maria Maggiore using pink and white marble to match the colours of the doorway of the basilica.
Inside the chapel he designed an elaborate two-tier sarcophagus surmounted by a golden statue of Colleoni on horseback.
Colleoni died on 2 November, 1475 and in accordance with his own instructions his body was placed in the lower sarcophagus, where it remains today.
The Cappella Colleoni is now considered to be one of the finest examples of Renaissance architecture in Italy .

Language point

Il Condottiero
Condottieri were leaders of troops in medieval times in Italy who worked for the powerful ruling factions, often for high payments.
Bergamo’s Bartolomeo Colleoni was unusual that he remained steadfast to one employer, the republic of Venice , for most of his career.
During a period of peace between Venice and Milan he worked briefly for Milan, but they never fully trusted him and eventually he was arrested and imprisoned. On his release, he returned to work for Venice and stayed faithful to them for the rest of his life.




20101101

Old Bergamo palaces line Via Pignolo

The elegant, winding Via Pignolo has some of the oldest architecture in Bergamo’s Città Bassa (lower town).
The easiest way to explore it is to walk downhill after leaving the Città Alta (upper town) through the Porta Sant’Agostino.
Germanic touch on Via Pignolo
Via Pignolo derives it name and coat of arms, with the symbol of the pine cone, from its ancient origins as a pathway through woodland.
It became the route into the Città Alta for travellers arriving from Venice and important buildings were built along it between the 15th and 18th centuries.
Palaces with imposing facades alternate with older, more modest buildings with 15th and 16th century doorways, columns and porticos.
Near the Piazzetta del Delfino look out for an interesting little house with a jutting out upper storey, reminiscent of medieval German architecture.
After that, on your left you will come to the church of Sant’Alessandro della Croce. Behind the white marble façade, which was added later, is a 17th century building with many early 16th century paintings by artists including Lorenzo Lotto, Andrea Previtali and Giovan Battista Moroni.
On your right at number 80 look out for the late 15th century Palazzo Tasso where the poet Torquato Tasso stayed on his two visits to Bergamo .
Close by at number 76 is the 16th century Palazzo Bassi-Rathgeb (now housing il Museo Bernareggi), whose doors and windows are decorated with marble carvings.
At number 72 the Palazzo Grataroli can be traced back to at least 1515, as the date is carved on a pedestal in its courtyard.
Church of Sant' Alessandro
della Croce
Further down you will come to the small church of San Bernardino in Pignolo, which contains an altarpiece by Lorenzo Lotto depicting the Virgin Mary with child and saints.
Via Pignolo continues to wind downhill to Piazzetta Santo Spirito, where the church of Santa Spirito , an important religious Renaissance building, also has an altarpiece by Lorenzo Lotto in one of its chapels depicting the Virgin Mary.
Via Pignolo continues to descend to Porta Sant’Antonio, which marks the beginning of Bergamo’s Borgo Palazzo.


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20101027

Bergamo’s casoncelli go international

Casoncelli 'Spaghetti House' style
A variation of Bergamo’s local dish, casoncelli alla bergamasca, is currently being enjoyed in London by diners at Spaghetti House restaurants.
Spaghetti Houses are including casoncelli under ‘la pasta artigianale e risotti’ section of their menu.
The casoncelli are described as half moon pasta filled with parmesan, pear, amaretti, beef and pork, tossed with cavolo nero -- a dark-leafed Tuscan cabbage -- and sausage.
It is a tasty version of Bergamo’s traditional dish, providing customers with hearty, warming food in London this autumn.
Spaghetti House restaurants have been serving traditional Italian food since 1955, when the first restaurant was opened in Goodge Street .
Although there are now 11 restaurants throughout London, Spaghetti House is still a privately owned, family run company.
For futher information about Spaghetti House restaurants visit www.spaghettihouse.co.uk

(Picture shows the Spaghetti House in St Martin’s Lane in west London, which is next door to the English National Opera.)


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20101025

Carrara collection in Bergamo’s Palazzo della Ragione

Although Bergamo’s prestigious art gallery the Accademia Carrara remains closed for restoration work, some of its masterpieces can still be viewed.
Palazzo della Ragione
A selection of paintings has been chosen for display in the heart of the Città Alta in the Truss Room of the Palazzo della Ragione in the Piazza Vecchia.
From October 2010 till May 2011 the exhibition can be viewed from Tuesday to Friday from 9.30 am to 5.30pm and on Saturdays and Sundays from 10.00 am to 6 pm .
The exhibition will be closed every Monday and between 25 December and 1 January.
The Truss Room is already home to some old frescoes taken from churches and public buildings in Bergamo .
Now, alongside them are some of the jewels of the Carrara’s collection, from the 15th to the 19th centuries.
The Bergamo school of painting is represented by artists such as Andrea Previtali, Palma il Vecchio and Lorenzo Lotto.
While Venetian masters include Fra Galgario, Francesco Guardi and Giovanni Antonio Canal ‘Canaletto’.
The exhibition provides a unique opportunity to admire the interior of the Palazzo della Ragione, see some of Bergamo’s ancient frescoes and experience the cream of the Carrara collection all together.


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